Episode 14 – The 11th of August to the 15th of August (Dranske and Hiddensee)

After the shake down at Cap Arkona we decided, that the boat needs to be made sailing proof. Everything fell out of its shelfs during these rough hours, and there was a significant amount of water in the bilge for different reasons. The boat needed it’s finishing touch. And so we stayed there at anchor, for four days straight. Best weather, super cold water. So after just two days of sailing we were back in building mode – not the worst place though.

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Episode 13 – The 10th of August – Round Rügen … or “When Cap Arkona fucked us over”

So after our first really successful day, we OF COURSE thought we were undefeatable. So we left early to round Rügen on its east and north site, to go towards Hiddensee. And it worked just fine in the beginning. “Bad Sellin”, the beaches of Binz, the sand cliffs. It was nice. But gradually getting stronger winds at a certain point we had water going into our cockpit for the first time. When we got close to the northern most tip of Rügen – named Cap Arkona – waves were really big and we had a problem. Our boom is very heavy and long, but did not have a topping lift at the time. That’s basically a rope going from the top of the mast to the far end of the boom to prevent it from bouncing. So Mr. boom was dancing around close to our heads. Second issue…. We did not have a preventer ready, which was stupid, because with wind from behind you need to open up the main sheet, but with huge waves you are afraid to furl out the boom when you are too slow to maneuver properly, because you don’t want to jibe accidentally. Why were we to slow? Because we did not furl out our main sail. We have basically been chasing our own tail that day.

Eventually we used the engine and thought “alright, defeated” but then the kayak – which we were towing since two days – flipped. So in the middle of the rough seas, we had to turn around to pick up the kayak, because at anchor it was our only chance to get to and from the beach it was more than worth rescuing. And this was neither easy nor very safe. In the end Benni had to leave the cockpit as well to pull the bad boy in, leaving us in the big waves without helmsman for 20 seconds.

So when we expect wind over 15 km/h, the kayak will be ON the boat from now on. Always.

Since we were running late for day light, we decided to anchor between Rügen and Hiddensee. This part of land was protected from waves and wind and it was really quiet there. Good choice because we met a wonderful person there and … well just have a look!

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Episode 12 – The 9th of August and our first real sail off towards Rügen

Since we were basically anchored in open water that night, it was pretty simple. Hoist main sail while getting the anchor up and just go one way. Nothing in the way, 80km as the crow flies. First it was a little beating into the (light) wind, but the further we got to Rügen, the beamer the wind. And for the first time we were flying at six to seven knots. Bennis aunt, uncle and cousin were at Rügen and it was their last night, so we were eager to get there before sunset. The final stretch was beating into the wind again – full on. We were feeling like race sailors tacking every 20 seconds, just because we can. Later we figured out, that the tacking (boat was heeling) was key, because beside the main channel, water was crazy shallow and so our draught was lower. We entered the harbor and were allowed to stay at a ferry dock. Why that? Because going into a box with 7 tons of boat and long keel is not something you wanna do just for 1-2 hours stay. Harbor master was fine with us hanging there. Thus we had amazing fish that Bennis aunt and uncle brought. Rügen by the way…. first time, it’s a beauty. Then we went back on the boat, left the harbor – this time under engine which means we were straight up 1,70m deep. And It took only 50 meters until we were hitting the ground. Benni took it easy, jumped into the water and was basically lifting the boat with his risen arms. We pulled the second anchor out. Benni took it by hand, brought it into the channel next to us and we pulled ourself out of the sand. Lesson learned. Leave port for a little more than 50 meters before leaving it and trying to anchor

Episode 11 – The 8th of August – Kaiserfahrt

Since there was little to no wind and the inbound lakes were a little shallow for our taste, we decided to head right for Swinemünde that day. Sadly, we could not sail the Stettiner Haff, or at least not much of it, because wind was almost facing us. We entered the channel towards the Baltic sea meeting the ocean ships for the first time. Ferries from Denmark and Sweden were intimidating. We left Swinemünde, hat good wind slightly behind the beam. The boat was going fast and nobody on the water. We were thinking about an instant night sail – than the wind died. Swell was still there and Benni felt confident to just drop anchor although waves and wind were facing towards land. Throwing the anchor and just went to bed. It was a noisy and “rolly” night, but we got some sleep and we didn’t drag anchor… luckily!

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Episode 10 – The 7th of August – Arriving in Stettin.

The following day we had only little way left towards Stettin. We crossed from the “West Oder Canal” to the real Oder river that was now deep enough for our keel. We entered the Dabie Lake. Those Marinas in Stettin – huge. We had suggestions from the WSW where to go to put up the mast – hopefully for long. We found that place and considering it was the Friday ending east Germanys holidays, we were pretty lucky that we could do it right away. It went all good (a little different than in Berlin) but well. The harbor master that operated the crane was super chill and after we were finished, we were allowed to stay until the very night to finish up the boat. With a standing mast we were able to rebuild solar and wind generator in the aft. Benni was constantly trimming the newly set up mast. We were so baked from the intense heat that we had to consider staying. But we decided to go out to the lake Dabie and just throw the anchor. It was super calm and freakin 30°C at 9 in the evening. We swam, we took pictures and we knew: Now it was on.

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Episode 9 – The 6th of August – Riding the Havel-Oder Kanal (Gartz)

They serve some serious breakfast at the marina Oderberg – got to say. From here Bennis brother Conrad boarded the boat. The lower Oder valley is a hot place in general, and man it was hot day in Europe. Basically riding the boat through a swamp and very rural buildings accompanied by just a few fishermen we felt like being inside the US state Louisiana as it is being portrayed in the HBO series True Detective. We were actually on time for Stettin (Poland btw) but on our way just to the side of the river there was this town, Gartz. Small not spectacular, but Currywurst, cold beer and empty parking for the boats. We took it and just called it a day early hanging out with Bennis and Conrads parents, as the were following our route by car.

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Episode 8 – The 5th of August – Riding the Havel-Order Kanal

We got up pretty early. Sun was rising at 5 and so were we. On towards the big lock “Lehnitz”. A little nervous because of many stories how it can be quite chaotic mixed with commercial ships. Operated rarely because summers in Germany get dryer and dryer and the headwater of the channel is barely sustained. Though when it finally opened, it went smooth and I’d say we were a little proud. This lock lifts you up I think 12 meters. So after the lift you are on kind of a landscape plateau and it is like riding on a ridge looking down into the landscape from a ship – pretty special. The next lock was the Schiffshebewerk Niederfinow. Not less spectacular this is more or less an elevator for ships. Amazing engineering. And then we were half way, stop in Oderberg – an apparently famous marina along the way. The harbor master was the funny type and was basically helping arriving ships, checking in people into the included hotel, was doing the drinks and service and…. Yeah he was doing it all – on his folding bike by the way. Go there, he is an experience of its own. Bennis parents were there and mine joined in from Wannsee. My Mum even took the ride from the last lock to Oderberg. We had some food some drinks. I think it was the first time our parents met.

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Episode 7- The 4th of August, 2020 – And so it begins

Many people – sometimes also the two of us – thought that this day would not come. But it did. Let’s start four days early. On Friday the 31st of July the WSW Berlin – the sailing club of the previous owner of the boat – was throwing us a good bye party. As we have only been guests the last year and did not have too much contact with the club in the cold Berlin winter (we were the only people most of the time working) things changed over the last three months before our departure. Most members of the club grew fond of us and thought it was beautiful, that the boat they thought would only be dumped soon was actually maybe SUCCESSFULLY be restored. And so they did not only watch but actually participate. Oskar in particular gave us basically an entire work shop of tools and useful other items. And they became friends for us too. We were just the two of us most of the time and then there were these guys … older wiser and a little wealthier but just boys, like us. And they decided to throw us a good bye party. Thank you WSW for an amazing time. We will be back!

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Episode 6 – The time at the berlin docks – the big big refit (long article)

Well the time between being hauled into the channel and moving to the Wannsee harbor and actually starting our voyage is probably the time we did the most work on the boat. This time span is from 21st of May until the 4th of August. Because now that the hull and the valves were fixed and the motor (except for the gear) was working fine, EVERYTHING else inside and on top of the boat, including mast, rigging, sails, safety, electricity and many other things had to be done. Let’s try to put this into chapters, that you can decide what you’re interested in and what not?

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Episode 5 – The Engine – lets be precise – The Gearbox

This is a rather long and technical article. Feel free to skip if you are not fan of engine stuff.

During our two weeks of refitting the hull, at one point we got to know Oscar. Owner of a ten-meter steel yacht he was there during those days to keep his boat in the flawless shape that it is … always. He was of great help and gave us a ton of advice and most of all he is a good man; Not only back then but also later (but that is a story of itself). He even had a boat mechanic come to check on his engine and made it a gift to also send his mechanic to our boat for the old Volvo Penta MD17C. We did some test runs and he basically told us, that the engine (if not the exhaust is rusting) seems to be in very good shape – and it was not rusting. Because the tank and the pipes were very old and we found water and dirt in the fuel system, we changed all filters and mounted a jerry rigged fuel can to the engine, to out rule any fouling in the two-year-old diesel fuel that was sitting in the original tank for two winters. The engine was running smoothly – starting every time and giving the sound of a tractor. Did you know that you kill these kind of old diesel engines by cutting them off the fuel? You basically let it die out. We thought this was amazing.

We were told that the previous owner of our boat had issues with the reverse gear. And at first we had the same issues, then we refilled the gear box with its designated oil and now it was working. And we thought “that was the easiest fix ever”. Little did we know.

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